This is Broc Cellars’s first vintage of Tocai, the fruit sourced from Fox Hill Vineyard in Ukiah. Bottled in clear glass, the body is pale straw yellow but has thrown a fine sediment; as it’s poured, it clouds. Decant the first draft and taste, noticing the fragrance of white tree fruits and flowers, the lightly frizzante texture. (Broc doesn’t use much sulfite, so the wine’s likely to have experienced microbial activity after bottling. This is all perfectly fine.)
Then swirl the bottle to get the most out of the savory sediment. Now the wine has acquired an earthy, bruised apple savoriness, plus something like ginger beer and birch wood. Fully dry and somewhat soft, it’s reminiscent of Bosc pear flesh and skin, dried ginger, acacia honey. It’s evocative, like most Tocai, of autumn leaves, of senescence, but the spritzy gas and a parting bite of apple-y acidity enliven it.
Pair with light autumnal cuisine.
2017 Broc Cellars Tocai Friulano Amore Bianco Mendocino County
12% abv | $25; sold out | 125 cases made