2017 Broc Cellars Love White Blend Madera

A blend of Roussanne (38 percent), Marsanne (38 percent), Grenache blanc (20 percent), and Viognier (4 percent), grown in the granitic schist of Love Ranch Vineyard in California’s Madera foothills. The site lies at 1,350 feet of elevation, making it a cool (or cool-ish) part of the Central Valley, but its viticulturists must do careful canopy management to mitigate for heat. The grapes were co-fermented with ambient cultures in neutral wood vessels of mixed capacity, from barrique to 2,500-liter cask, and spontaneous malolactic was permitted. The wine aged for eight months prior to bottling.

The body is pale yellow with a fragrance of orchard fruits, particularly Bosc pear and quince, plus fresh linen on the line. The palate lacks the soapiness that’s common in New World white Rhône blends, a result of soft acid profiles. Still, it’s a supple wine, coating but not cloying, the small dollop of Viognier contributing apricot richness while the tannic nature of the Roussanne adds welcome bite.

A good wine for youthful, milky cheeses. Avoid the strident and assertive — no cheddar or blues, no aged Manchego; you need something delicate and tender. Also good for poached white fish or chicken.