McGuire sources the grapes from a variety of vineyards throughout Santa Barbara County, balancing warmer and cooler sites. About two-thirds of the Chardonnay is from Los Alamos Vineyard, with the remainder deriving from Bien Nacido, Hilltop Ranch, and Wente. In some years he includes a tiny fraction of Riesling or Chenin in the blend; this vintage is just Riesling, about 4 percent. Grapes were whole-cluster pressed and fermented half in stainless steel tank and half in barrel, 15 percent new, with malolactic fermentation and lees stirring.
The result is shiny deep gold, a wine redolent of citrus peels, honeydew, and baked pineapple, with a stripe of oily sage. Solid acidity lifts the concentrated fruit. This is a textural wine, coating and weighty, a mouthful of ripeness. The creamy notes make it a good partner for bloomy cow’s milk cheeses, butter- or cream-sauces, gratins studded with cheese. It’s also a fine counterpoint for roasted poultry, salmon, or pork.
2018 Santa Barbara Winery Chardonnay Santa Barbara County
14.3% abv | About $18
Blending Riesling into Chardonnay? Color me surprised, intrigued, horrified, appalled, and at the same time curious.
Yeah, but not much. It’s a New World thing.