Alex Krause and John Locke, the makers of Birichino, source fruit for this bottling from vines planted in 1886. (The tech sheet claims this is oldest Cinsault anywhere on earth.) They do a saignée on this must, weirdly counterintuitively, because you’d think that old vines would not need concentration. But — they’re old.
But not weak. The wine’s aromas are brambly, yielding blackberry, black raspberry, and red raspberry, and adding layers of red and black plums. Limpid, lightweight, and light on its feet, it’s like a dancer who’s been dancing a long, long time.
2018 Birichino Old Vine Cinsault Bechthold Vineyard Mokelumne River Lodi
12.5% abv | $25
320 cases made