Ligier’s two hectares in Côtes du Jura are farmed sustainably, according to lutte raisonneé. About one-third of their production is Savagnin, as here, supplemented by Plousard and a fetching Trousseau. This Savagnin spends three years in barrel sous voile, versus the six required for true vin jaune, and the result is approachable for those new to the style. Still, its rich, waxy aromatics are topped with a sharp plume of acetaldehyde from this aging method. The robe is solid gold and deeply redolent of roasted nuts, light honey, beeswax, and dried straw, and the palate is fully dry and savory, with mouth-filling nuttiness and a bitter, sherried finish.
Pair with rich, aged cheeses (Comté, of course), roasted salted nuts, aged ham, and salty snacks. Also perfect with fondue and French mountain cuisine.
2012 Domaine Ligier Les Chassagnes Côtes du Jura Blanc
14.5% abv | $26; Imported by Ansonia Wines