California, White Wines, Wine ReviewsOctober 1, 2018<April 10, 2019

2016 Trombetta Chardonnay Four Brothers Vineyard Sonoma Mountain

by Meg Maker

Chardonnay both ample and cooling

Located on the northeast side of Sonoma Mountain, Four Brothers Vineyard, planted in the early aughts, harbors Eden, Wente, and Calera Chardonnay clones. Brix at the 2016 harvest averaged 24.3°, and the fruit was whole-cluster pressed and fermented with ambient yeast. The wine underwent malolactic in barrel and spent eight months on lees in one-quarter new French oak. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered.

It’s an admirable Chardonnay, a wine with a steely, savory core despite the malolactic and barrel influences. The aromas are like crushed herbs, cultured cream, and wet rocks, and the body is satiny, with a shimmery mid-section and a finish that is utterly saline, fully mineral. I’d like to try aging a few bottles.