2018 La Valentina Pecorino Colline Pescaresi

The wine is a study in contradictions. Pale sunny yellow, it offers a fragrance of grass, straw, hay, yellow apple, and white peach. The perfume feels fresh, bright, breezy, cooling, with a summery cast. Then the wine hits the tongue and spreads out, more weighty than expected, in ripe tree fruits shot with a bitter-herbal-essence. Still, it remains, at its core, a light-hearted wine that’s good with cured meats, fish, and light pasta dishes. Especially terrific with cheese, try it with, of course, Pecorino, or any medium- to well-aged cow’s or sheep’s milk cheeses (avoid cheddar). Don’t serve it too cold.

2018 La Valentina Pecorino Colline Pescaresi IGT

13.5% abv | $17 (sample); Imported by Dalla Terra