2015 Erpacrife Nebbiolo Spumante Método Classico Langhe

Erpacrife is located in Castagnole delle Lanze, midway between Asti and Alba. The team of winemaker-owners — Erik Dogliotti, Paolo Stella, Cristian Calatroni, and Federico Scarzello (get it?) — draw Nebbiolo for this traditional-method sparkler from the one-hectare Madonna di Como vineyard, in Alba, which was planted in 1985. The grapes are harvested manually into small bins, and primary fermentation is kept cold to protect the delicate fruit flavors. The wine rests en tirage for 24 months prior to disgorgement, and is corked without dosage. It enjoys 36 additional months of repose in the cellar prior to release.

The results are pale salmon pink with a quiet bead and lightly reductive fragrance, at least at first. The texture is spumy and shot through with piquant acidity, and its red fruit flavors are accessorized with salt and wet stone. The choice to leave the wine un-dosed suggests that the winemakers wanted to showcase the fruit and the good farming that went into it. It does, however, render it somewhat severe as an aperitif wine. Although some commentators suggest un-dosed wines should be served without food, I like them with salty-savory snacks — in this case: salumi, aged cheeses, olives, almonds, rosemary focaccia.