A curious wine: A varietal Rkatsiteli—an ancient grape from Georgia—grown in Horton Vineyards in Virginia’s Monticello appellation. The fruit was fermented on skins and the wine aged for 15 months in used French oak. It went through full malolactic.
The color is medium gold, reflecting the skin contact, and its aromas are nutty and honeyed with a lilt of vanilla and ginger. Mild tannins grip the mid-palate, but the wine lacks bite overall, owing to its soft acidity. It reads mostly as a muddle of savory honey, almond, and something like roasted Asian pear.
Is softness and burnished edges make it tricky to pair with food. It’s not really a cheese wine because its acidity is so modest. Try serving it as an aperitif with toasted nuts or crispy snacks, or with simple preparations of chicken or fish.
Now that is an oddball wine. I have had regular Rkatsiteli from Horton, but that is a new one.