Bovio sources Nebbiolo for its Parussi Barolo from its vineyards in Castiglione Falletto. The fruit is vinified with ambient cultures in wooden tank with temperature control, and the wine ages for 20 to 24 months in oak barrels, plus another few months in concrete, before bottling. The robe is barn red with a flame peach rim, and the aromas are fresh but also lightly volatile; I get balsamic and cedar and old attic, but also cherry blossom and sunshine. The tannins feel dusty but there’s a core of scintillant acidity along with flavors of tea-steeped cherries. The finish is, again, balsamic (in a good, characterful way). Seven years beyond the vintage it’s just coming into its own.
2016 Bovio Parussi Barolo DOCG
14.5% ABV | About $70; imported by Lyra Fine Wine Imports