This Chardonnay was grown in Ramey’s Westside Farms, a 75-acre ranch along a curl of the Russian River that’s carpeted in gravelly silt-loam. The fruit was whole-cluster pressed, and both primary and secondary fermentations occurred in barrel with ambient cultures. The wine aged 18 months in French oak, one-third new.
When first opened it is stony, yielding a scent of wet clay and water on rocks. Then suddenly it turns a corner, blossoming in lime peel, sappy yellow citrus, and the laurel-inflected scent of green walnut. Sipped, the wine offers flourishes of sparkly citric fruits, pineapple, lemon curd, and cultured cream. It is savory from the lees stirring, which adds a proper bass note, but the finish lifts again in green tea and ginger.
Polished and prismatic, but with a depth charge of fruit, acid, and savoriness, it’s more profound than Ramey’s Sonoma Coast Chardonnay (which is saying a lot). This is the kind of wine you want to know better. Some will drink it alone as a rumination. Others will age it, and congratulate themselves later.
2014 Ramey Chardonnay Westside Farms Russian River Valley
14.5% abv | $65 (sample) 235 cases made
It will be interesting to see where this bottling slots into the SV lineup. It seems to lean more towards Hyde than Platt or (now gone) Hudson, but several vintages will be needed to get a grasp of it.
You have much more experience with these wines than I do. I look forward to your continued updates, David.
Meg, thanks a bunch! So glad you like it.
Thank you for making it, David!