Damilano
Barolo "Lecinquevigne "
2004
14% ABV | Current price: about $36
Nebbiolo grapes from five eponymous vineyards go into this wine. It's young for a Barolo, so we decanted it, expecting tannins.
It's soft, though, made in a slightly fruitier style, but still has plenty of spine. Deep barn red, clear and even. The nose is a heady mix of rosy flowers and spice and savory herbs, with a little almond, too. On the palate it's wildly herbaceous, with a tannic grip but plenty of fruit and spice; I get currant and fennel. It sings with fresh local goat cheese rolled in thyme and rosemary.
There's so much going on it feels a little gangling and awkward. But we're happy to have at last a wine with a high interestingness quotient.
It’s actually refreshing to see a “generic” Barolo when the trend has been toward cru and even micro-cru offerings. From the notes, it seems somewhere between Old Style and New, though I don’t know the producer. The great thing about the Old Style multi-vineyard blends is price. “About $36”? That’s my cup of Barolo!
Todd, thanks for your comment. Yes, $36 did seem like a reasonable price to pay for this experience. Have you others to recommend?
Any Barolo or Barbaresco (even more so because there’s so much less of it made) under $40 is worth taking a chance on. Some will be French-oaked until chocolaty and others will be tight and tough as nebbiolo is when young, but all will be interesting.
This wine was somewhere in the happy middle. Thanks again for your helpful insights.