Interestingness

Barolo

Damilano
Barolo "Lecinquevigne "
2004
14% ABV | Current price: about $36

Nebbiolo grapes from five eponymous vineyards go into this wine. It's young for a Barolo, so we decanted it, expecting tannins.

It's soft, though, made in a slightly fruitier style, but still has plenty of spine. Deep barn red, clear and even. The nose is a heady mix of rosy flowers and spice and savory herbs, with a little almond, too. On the palate it's wildly herbaceous, with a tannic grip but plenty of fruit and spice; I get currant and fennel. It sings with fresh local goat cheese rolled in thyme and rosemary.

There's so much going on it feels a little gangling and awkward. But we're happy to have at last a wine with a high interestingness quotient.

 

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4 Comments

  • It’s actually refreshing to see a “generic” Barolo when the trend has been toward cru and even micro-cru offerings. From the notes, it seems somewhere between Old Style and New, though I don’t know the producer. The great thing about the Old Style multi-vineyard blends is price. “About $36”? That’s my cup of Barolo!

  • Any Barolo or Barbaresco (even more so because there’s so much less of it made) under $40 is worth taking a chance on. Some will be French-oaked until chocolaty and others will be tight and tough as nebbiolo is when young, but all will be interesting.

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