A truly Christmassy wine, deep red with a fragrance of juniper, red berries, and baking spice. Warming and sweet from its cinnamon and allspice seasonings and ripe concentrated fruits, its body is a wash of black cherries and currants. But the frame is young and muscular, and its leathery astringency amply dusts the palate. Not a lot of minerality—pencil or graphite or stone; mostly this wine is a lavish wreath of fruit and frond, spice and saddle. ’Tis the season.