In Montepulciano, the local clone of Sangiovese is known as Prugnolo Gentile. Whatever you call it, that particular grape makes up 85 percent of this blend, with the balance contributed by two other old Tuscan grapes, Colorino and Canaiolo, plus dollop of interloper Merlot. The vines are anchored in clay studded with small cobbles, and the grapes were fermented in stainless steel. The wine spent about a year and a half in oak barriques and tonneau, partly new, plus large wooden cask.
The wine is woody, woodsy, with brilliant cherry glints and a fragrance of red fruits wreathed in sweet tea, tobacco, cedar chest, and something suggesting a vanilla cigar. But the wine’s texture is light, and overall it doesn’t read as dark as its earthy redolence suggests. Terrific acidity keeps the palate refreshed.
It’s youthful, still, and I’d like to re-taste it with a few years of bottle age. Serve it now with smoked, grilled, cured, and herb-rubbed meat.
14% abv | $28 (sample) | Imported by Dalla Terra
