Malvirà has been making this particular cuvée since 1989. On a Zoom tasting, cellar manager Giacomo Damonte told me that in this 2009 vintage they began using a cold maceration prior to fermentation. “We love experimenting with lots in our winery,” he said.
They found that the added step retained freshness in the wine while eliminating the need for extended maceration after fermentation. The Trinità never sees new or small barriques; instead, it’s aged in traditional large botte.
The result is a cherry-orange color with a limpid tan rim and a perfume that suggests leather, violets, dried rose petals, anise seed. The palate is sensuous, the tea-stain of age having worked its magic on the cherry acidity. The flavors deliver a sense of cherry wood, cedar, juniper berry, and red plums, while firm acidity accentuates the wine’s tannic texture.
Despite the age, the wine still feels youthful. I expect it could cellar much longer.
2009 Malvirà S.S. Trinità Riserva Roero DOCG
14.5% ABV | About $45 (sample); imported by Indigenous Selection