2012 Koutsoyannopoulos Nikteri Santorini

Autumnal and tinged with age

2012 Koutsoyannopoulos Nikteri Santorini

Another Nykteri wine (here spelled with an i), a style traditionally harvested during the cool of the night, then vinified immediately to preserve freshness. Although only a year older than the Hatzidakis Nykteri, it feels far more autumnal, with a golden robe and a sherried quality that suggests tea-sweet yellow leaves. There is the redolence of roasted almond, marzipan, and honeyed peaches, and the body is substantial (in keeping with this style), with baked pome fruits and a nutty finish.

Pair it with a cheese course scattered with nuts and dried figs, or even a rich or creamy dessert that’s slightly un-sweet, like cannoli or olive oil cake. Or try it with roasted fowl, game meats, rabbit, or rich shellfish. You need some weight.

13.8% abv | This vintage about $30; the 2015 is about $36 (sample) Imported by Frederick Wildman & Sons

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