2008 Canava Roussos Nykteri Santorini

Reaching the limits of older Nykteri

2008 Canava Roussos Nykteri Santorini

This Nykteri style wine is 100 percent Assyrtiko and, at eight years old, seems to have overshot its apex. The wine’s original substance and cellaring allowed it to develop depth and intricacy, but the fruit has fallen away, leaving vestiges of wood and oxidation: nuts, cedar, sherry, cherrystone. There is a slight intimation of yellow apple skin, quince paste, and guava, but mostly this wine is about senescence—both from the original barrel, which sometimes steps forward with age, and from the oxidation that happens languidly in a tiny glass aging vessel.

Sip it slowly, treating it as you might a sherry, or serve it with very savory fare.

13.5% abv | (sample) Possibly no longer available; formerly imported by Vingreco Wines

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