About three quarters of the fruit for this Macphail bottling were grown in Gap’s Crown Vineyard, in the Petaluma Gap of the Sonoma Coast, a site famous for Pinot Noir but which also yields extraordinary Chardonnay. The remainder of the fruit derives from the Pratt Vineyard in the Russian River Valley. Grapes were barrel-fermented and the wine went through full malolactic, then aged sur lie for 17 months in a portion of new French oak. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Its aromas skew toward apple and pineapple, dried pineapple, and chamomile, while the flavor profile suggests spiced cream (nutmeg), lemon curd, ginger, candied citrus, and green tea. But while the wine is mouth-filling it’s not too heavy, not sweet or encumbered, and the malolactic and barrel influences are noticeable but the weight remains diaphanous. There’s also an astringent quality at the finish I find enchanting.
Don’t serve it too cold.
14.3% abv | $65 (sample) | 120 cases made