We purchased this bottle at the winery in June 2002, while on our honeymoon in the Northern Rhône. The wine’s color has matured to a deep ruby red with the faintest glint of orange. The nose is beguiling and wildly aromatic, with a floral bouquet of violets, lavender, and rosemary floating above an earthy, leathery base. When first poured, it seemed closed on the palate, austere and thin. But after fifteen minutes in the glass, the wine began to expand and open, filling the mouth with clean dark fruit, herbs like anise and lavender, a bright acidity, and a savory, spicy earthiness. It’s a bit tannic, with a drying, woody finish (befitting its name). Perhaps it’s still a bit young, or maybe it started with a bit too much oak. Still, it’s an elegant, Old World wonder, and still wonderful in its eleventh year.