Domaine de la Jaufrette
Current price: about $16

Lying back once again into the Rhône's liquid embrace.

This wine is so inky black it's nearly opaque, with a nose redolent of black pepper, sage, anise, clove, and lavender. There's fruit inside, but it's veiled, yielding slowly as the wine warms in my mouth. I find black cherry there, but also fig, blackberry, and black currant. It has a long, drying finish, the fruit and spice and herbs trailing into the distance, thinning.

It's a relief to experience a wine that relies, as this one does, on savoryness, on variegated complexity and nuance for its impact. It does not say, simply, fruit. It doesn't say alcohol and tannin. It's a wine that speaks in full sentences, plays to the palate's intelligence, at last.



More from Meg Maker

2014 Ferraton Père et Fils Samorëns Rouge Côtes du Rhône

“Kicky bramble fruit and a drift of black pepper...”
Read More

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *