Refritos, Northern Style

Raw

The other day I scooped up a load of shell beans grown on a local farm. They may have been cranberry beans; they weren't labeled, and it's been a dozen years since I grew them myself, so I'm not sure. The glossy beans popped easily from their thin, leathery pods. Some were nearly burgundy, others pale green.

Process

I simmered them for about forty-five minutes with bay and a little olive oil. Once they were tender, I drained them and sautéed with garlic and lots of cracked black pepper.

They were wonderful: lightly browned and crisp on the outside, creamy and sweet and earthy on the inside. Served with a drizzle of fruity olive oil, crusty bread, and salad, they made a perfect fall meal.


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2 replies on “Refritos, Northern Style”
  1. Allison, thanks for your note. Yes, these beans are so simple—humble, even—and yet when they’re cooked fresh like this they can be very nuanced. This dish shows what I call “the magic of three:” a main element (beans), a main complement (garlic), and a third, bright element that rounds these out (pepper). The fruity oil helps, too, though it tends to stay in the background.

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