Two As One


I don't usually go for specialty ingredients. My food philosophy, such as it is, rests on the pure expression of individual elements: food as itself. Still, when I saw this oil today, I had to buy it. Not an infused oil, but the product of pressing olives and tangerines together in the stone frantoio. For centuries, olive farmers in the Abruzzo have pressed lemons with olives; this elaborates that tradition.

It's miraculous. The two flavors marry as one on the palate, at once tart, astringent, pungent, and bewitchingly citrusy. It's pizzicante, offering a little catch in the back of the throat, and it leaves your tongue a bit numb, wanting more.

Beautiful plain on bread, it would be great on fish, poultry, or vegetables, especially fennel or dark winter greens. Find a little more info here.

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