Gattinara: Interesting, Once in a While


The town of Gattinara is in the north of Piedmont, almost in Switzerland, and its wine is made from nebbiolo grapes and packaged a weird, wavy bottle.

So it's got character, at least on the outside; inside, not so much. Pouring it into our glasses, we were struck by its lovely nose, almost like a Pinot. But the first sip vanished quickly, leaving our tongues with a little acid bite. The wine did open up over the course of the meal, delivering a little more nuance as it warmed, and, ultimately, marrying well with a salty, crusty, olive-y pizza.

It had been a few years since we'd had one. We'd probably wait that long again.

Price: $21 (sale)

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