Youth’s Few Charms

Domaine les Grands Bois
Cuvée les Trois Soeurs Côtes du Rhône
2006

This wine is deep cherry pink with no hint of the bricky red that indicates maturity. It smells of herbs and wood and, well, grapes, which is not usually a flattering descriptor for vinified wine.  It's profoundly unintegrated, with distinct elements that stand apart—almost, but not quite, in conversation with one another: acid, fruit, oak, tannin. It's all and none of these, no one characteristic especially prominent or noteworthy, none really defining of character.

Still, it has promise. If this is what the trois soeurs are like, maybe we should meet la mère.

Price: $13

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