Reading List: January 23, 2022
Traditional drinks, modern palates, and the evolving social and agriculture landscape
cooking
Pancetta from A Small Good
Wild-fermented, cultured with koji, and cured on the bone, this pancetta adds soul to braises, soups, and stews
Ancient Provençal Sweets, Not Too Sweet
Calissons and nougats from Dana Confection Co. are a delicious, inventive nod to tradition
What The Land Can Yield
Reflections on cooking an all-local Thanksgiving dinner
Wines to Pair With Smoked Foods
It’s not all ribs and brisket. What to pour?
The Best Things I Ate In Italy Last Week
Italy is delicious. (I’m not the first to notice.)
Inside the CIA
My latest column for Palate Press takes readers behind the scenes at the Culinary Institute of America.
Zinfandel Gelato
A recipe for Zinfandel Gelato, seasoned with spices.
Happy Birthday, Julia Child
Julia Child would have been 100 years old today. She hasn’t been gone long; she died only in 2004, two days before her 92nd…
States of Grace
It is October, and so my vegetable garden is not in a state of grace. The tomato plants are, of the assembed, the most…
First of the Garden Meals, 2010
Suppertime. There's no veg in my fridge, nor fruit, for that matter. No meat, and only a little cheese. But I do have veg…
Rustic Onion Tart
It never wins prizes for its looks, but this rustic pastry with caramelized onions, Gruyere, and bacon always wins hearts. When I serve it…