Drink, Memory


Paul Jaboulet Aîné 
Côte-Rôtie "Les Jumelles"

Current price: varies widely; about $45

We bought this wine at the source, on a trip to the Northern Rhône in 2002, paying about $20. It's pale brickish red now and very clear after decanting. The nose is smoky and dark, and whatever sweetness it offers is not of fruit, but lavender and mint. The wine feels thin on the palate, tannic and quite tart, with more herbal and smoky flavors. What fruit it had has aged away.

Still, it's a memento: a little trip back, remembering.



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